What is Gems 118 Graphite?

Gems 118 Graphite is a semi-permanent colour mask by Code Zero, from The Gems Collection, that deposits a deep graphite. It is ready to use, without ammonia and without developer: apply, leave on for 5 to 15 minutes and rinse.

On light or lightened hair it deposits the full graphite of the colour chart; on natural blonde to mid-brown hair it leaves a graphite reflection. It is used on its own, diluted with Gems C Clear for a lighter, more transparent graphite, or as a pre-pigmentation before colour. It is not part of the official formulas of the Gems Colors Chart.

Specifications

The starting base decides the colour

Gems 118 Graphite does not lighten: it adds its pigment to the colour it finds on the hair. Unlike the pastel shades of the collection, a deep shade also shows on darker bases, but with a different intensity on each. Assessing level, porosity and evenness before application is the step that decides the final colour.

How to assess the base

• Level: how light the hair is, on a scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The lighter the base, the more the graphite shows as a clear change of colour; on a mid-brown base it reads as a graphite reflection.
• Underlying tone: a warm, orange or yellow undertone makes the graphite warmer and browner; a light, cool base gives a cooler graphite.
• Evenness: roots, lengths and ends can have different levels, and each area shows a different depth of graphite.
• Porosity: lightened or treated hair takes the pigment faster than natural hair: with a deep shade, porous ends can turn darker than the rest.

What to expect and how to act

How to achieve the graphite of the colour chart

1. Assess the base: level, porosity and evenness, as described above.
2. On very dark hair, the graphite of the chart needs a lighter base: a lightening service in the salon. On light to mid-brown hair no lightening is needed.
3. Apply Gems 118 Graphite to washed, towel-dried hair for 5 to 15 minutes, or to clean, dry bleached strands for 15 to 20 minutes, and rinse thoroughly.
4. Finish with Stabilizer pH 3.5 as the last step.
5. Revive the reflection when it fades: on washed, towel-dried hair, 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired intensity.

On light or bleached hair the graphite deposits quickly: a test on a hidden strand shows the result on the real base in advance and avoids an uneven colour between lengths and ends.

How to use Gems 118 Graphite

On washed hair

1. Wash the hair and blot the excess water.
2. Apply the colour mask and comb through.
3. Leave on for 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired reflection intensity.
4. At the end of the processing time, rinse thoroughly.

On previously bleached strands

1. Apply the colour mask to clean, dry hair.
2. Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes.

Pre-pigmentation

1. Apply the colour mask to lengths and ends.
2. Comb through.
3. Remove the excess product.
4. Proceed with the colour application, with or without ammonia.

Wear suitable gloves before application.

Mixes with Gems 118 Graphite

Gems 118 Graphite is used on its own for the graphite of the chart, or diluted with Gems C Clear for a lighter, more transparent graphite. It does not appear in the 31 official formulas of the collection, so the chart gives no fixed percentages for mixing it with other Gems shades.

All 31 official formulas of the collection, with the percentage of each shade, are collected in the Gems Colors Chart.

For professionals

• Service: graphite toning, a graphite reflection on natural or coloured hair, a lighter graphite with Gems C Clear, pre-pigmentation before colour with or without ammonia.
• Processing time: 5-15 minutes on washed, towel-dried hair; 15-20 minutes on bleached strands, applied to dry hair.
• Formats: 200 ml.
• At the station: Gems C Clear to dilute the shade and the Gems Colors Chart to show the client shades and formulas on real hair.
• After the service: Stabilizer pH 3.5, the acidic leave-in spray for the last step.

Gems 118 Graphite compared

• vs Gems 12 Dark Mauve: the dark mauve of the collection. Gems 118 Graphite suits a deep graphite; 12 Dark Mauve suits a dark mauve.
• vs Gems 11 Pearl Grey: the pearl grey of the collection. Gems 118 Graphite suits a deep graphite on light to mid-brown hair; 11 Pearl Grey suits a pearl grey on the lightest hair.

FAQ

Does Gems 118 Graphite need a developer?

No: it is a ready-to-use colour mask, without ammonia and without developer.

Does it show on brown or dark hair?

On mid-brown hair it shows as a graphite reflection; on very dark or black hair it is barely visible.

Why can the ends turn darker than the lengths?

Lightened or porous ends take the pigment faster. Starting from the minimum processing time and applying to the ends last keeps the colour even.

How is a lighter graphite made?

By diluting it with Gems C Clear, which lowers the intensity of the shade.

Is it part of the official formulas?

No: Gems 118 Graphite does not appear in the 31 official formulas of the Gems Colors Chart. It is used on its own or diluted with Gems C Clear.

Is it applied to damp or dry hair?

To washed, towel-dried hair for normal use; to clean, dry hair for bleached strands.