Gems Colors Chart
DESCRIPTION
What is Gems Colors Chart?
Gems Colors Chart is the Code Zero colour chart of The Gems Collection: it shows the 19 Gems shades and Gems C Clear on real hair strands, and 31 official mixing formulas in 10 colour families, from browns to pastels made with Gems C Clear. Gems are semi-permanent colour masks, ammonia-free and used without developer: they deposit colour without lightening, so the base decides how each shade reads.
The strands show each shade on a light base. This page lists all 31 formulas with the percentage of each shade and a link to every shade, so the colourist can prepare the mix and show the client the colour on real hair before the service.
Specifications
| Brand | Code Zero |
|---|---|
| Line | The Gems Collection |
| Product type | Hair colour chart |
| Format | Chart with real coloured hair strands |
| Contents | 19 Gems shades and Gems C Clear on strands; 31 mixing formulas in 10 colour families |
| Use | Salon colour consultation |
The shades of the chart
In the order of the chart, each with its own page:
- Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde
- Gems 44 Intense Copper
- Gems 66 Intense Red
- Gems 88 Blue
- Gems 02 Lavender
- Gems 22 Intense Violet
- Gems 52 Magenta
- Gems 62 Fuchsia
- Gems 7 Moka
- Gems 75 Cocoa
- Gems 036 Peach
- Gems 060 Coral Pink
- Gems 81 Black
- Gems 118 Graphite
- Gems 18 Iron
- Gems 11 Pearl Grey
- Gems 12 Dark Mauve
- Gems 23 Champagne
- Gems 01 Platinum
- Gems C Clear
The 31 official formulas
Each formula gives the percentage of every Gems shade in the mix; the percentages add up to 100%. Formulas with Gems C Clear are softer, lighter versions of the shades they contain.
Gems do not lighten: the result of a formula depends on the base, and the chart shows it on a light base.
Brown
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Brown 1 | 50% Gems C Clear + 20% Gems 75 Cocoa + 30% Gems 02 Lavender |
| Brown 2 | 40% Gems 7 Moka + 60% Gems 11 Pearl Grey |
| Brown 3 | 40% Gems 7 Moka + 50% Gems 88 Blue + 10% Gems 52 Magenta |
| Brown 4 | 50% Gems 7 Moka + 50% Gems 52 Magenta |
| Brown 5 | 50% Gems 75 Cocoa + 50% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
Ash / Gold
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Ash / Gold 1 | 65% Gems 11 Pearl Grey + 35% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde |
| Ash / Gold 2 | 85% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 15% Gems 7 Moka |
| Ash / Gold 3 | 95% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 5% Gems 75 Cocoa |
Copper
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Copper 1 | 95% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 5% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
| Copper 2 | 48% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 2% Gems 66 Intense Red + 50% Gems C Clear |
| Copper 3 | 95% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 5% Gems 66 Intense Red |
| Copper 4 | 80% Gems 44 Intense Copper + 20% Gems 22 Intense Violet |
| Copper 5 | 75% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 25% Gems 52 Magenta |
Red
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Red 1 | 90% Gems C Clear + 10% Gems 66 Intense Red |
| Red 2 | 50% Gems 66 Intense Red + 30% Gems 62 Fuchsia + 20% Gems 52 Magenta |
| Red 3 | 50% Gems 44 Intense Copper + 50% Gems 66 Intense Red |
Green
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Green 1 | 60% Gems C Clear + 35% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 5% Gems 88 Blue |
| Green 2 | 90% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde + 10% Gems 88 Blue |
Aqua Marine
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Aqua Marine 1 | 90% Gems C Clear + 5% Gems 88 Blue + 5% Gems 3 Very Light Golden Blonde |
Blue
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Blue 1 | 90% Gems C Clear + 10% Gems 88 Blue |
| Blue 2 | 50% Gems 7 Moka + 50% Gems 88 Blue |
Fuchsia
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Fuchsia 1 | 80% Gems 11 Pearl Grey + 20% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
| Fuchsia 2 | 60% Gems 52 Magenta + 40% Gems 66 Intense Red |
| Fuchsia 3 | 65% Gems 02 Lavender + 35% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
Purple
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Purple 1 | 75% Gems 11 Pearl Grey + 25% Gems 02 Lavender |
| Purple 2 | 40% Gems 22 Intense Violet + 60% Gems 52 Magenta |
| Purple 3 | 80% Gems 22 Intense Violet + 20% Gems 88 Blue |
| Purple 4 | 90% Gems 22 Intense Violet + 10% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
Rose
| Formula | Mix |
|---|---|
| Rose 1 | 95% Gems C Clear + 5% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
| Rose 2 | 90% Gems C Clear + 10% Gems 52 Magenta |
| Rose 3 | 80% Gems C Clear + 20% Gems 62 Fuchsia |
Eight shades do not appear in the official formulas: Gems 036 Peach, Gems 060 Coral Pink, Gems 81 Black, Gems 118 Graphite, Gems 18 Iron, Gems 12 Dark Mauve, Gems 23 Champagne, Gems 01 Platinum. They are used on their own or diluted with Gems C Clear.
Step by step, from assessing the base to the pastels with C Clear: Gems by Code Zero: how to choose the shade and use the 31 chart formulas.
How to use Gems Colors Chart
- Open the chart during the consultation and look at the strands under natural or daylight-balanced light.
- Compare the client's lengths with the strands: Gems do not lighten, so on a base deeper than the strands the shade reads more subtly.
- Choose a shade or a formula and note the codes and percentages, which are also listed on this page.
- Close the chart after the consultation and keep it away from the mixing area, so the strands stay clean.
For professionals
- Service: consultation before fashion colour, pastel and toning services with the Gems colour masks.
- At the station: Gems C Clear for the formulas with C Clear and Stabilizer pH 3.5 for the final step of the service.
- Range: the shades of the chart are in the Code Zero Gems Collection, in 200 ml; Gems C Clear in 400 ml.
Gems Colors Chart compared
- vs Vibrant Color Chart: the Code Zero chart with 106 shades of Vibrant Color, the permanent colour mixed 1:1 with Oxidizer, with the colour star. Gems Colors Chart suits direct-pigment fashion colours and pastels; Vibrant Color Chart suits permanent colour, grey coverage and lift.
- vs Grace Colors Chart: the NIKA chart of the ammonia-free Grace Color range in 60 ml, mixed 1:1.5 with Activators. Gems Colors Chart suits semi-permanent colour masks without developer; Grace Colors Chart suits the Grace oxidation colour service.
FAQ
What does Gems Colors Chart show?
The 19 Gems shades and Gems C Clear on real coloured strands, and 31 mixing formulas in 10 colour families with the percentage of each shade.
How is a formula read?
Each formula lists the Gems shades and their share of the mix. For example, Rose 1 is 95% Gems C Clear + 5% Gems 62 Fuchsia.
Which shades are not in the formulas?
Gems 01, 12, 18, 23, 036, 060, 81 and 118. They are used on their own or diluted with Gems C Clear.
Will the shade look the same on the client's hair?
It depends on her base. Gems deposit colour without lightening: the strands show the shade on a light base, while on a deeper base it reads more subtly. A strand test on the client's hair confirms the result.
How are pastel shades made?
By mixing a Gems shade with Gems C Clear: the official formulas Red 1, Aqua Marine 1, Blue 1 and Rose 1 to 3 use 80% to 95% C Clear. The more C Clear, the lighter and more even the base must be.
Do Gems need a developer?
No: they are ready-to-use colour masks, ammonia-free and used without developer.
Which light is best for choosing a shade?
Natural daylight or a daylight-balanced lamp, the same light in which the client will judge the result.
Material and care
Keep the chart closed and dry, away from the mixing bowls and the colour masks, which stain the strands. Avoid long exposure to direct sunlight and handle the strands with clean, dry hands.
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