What is Gems 18 Iron?

Gems 18 Iron is a semi-permanent colour mask by Code Zero, from The Gems Collection, that deposits a dark, cool iron grey with a metallic reflection. It is ready to use, without ammonia and without developer: apply, leave on for 5 to 15 minutes and rinse.

On evenly lightened hair the iron grey reads full and deep; on darker natural hair it leaves a cool reflection that shows in the light. It is used on its own, diluted with Gems C Clear for a lighter grey, or as a pre-pigmentation before colour.

Specifications

The starting base decides the colour

Gems 18 Iron does not lighten: it adds its pigment to the colour it finds on the hair. The result is always the meeting of the base and the shade, which is why assessing the hair before application is the step that decides the final colour.

How to assess the base

• Level: how light the hair is, on a scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The iron grey of the colour chart is achieved on a very light base.
• Underlying tone: after lightening a yellow or orange undertone often remains. The blue pigment of the shade, over a yellow undertone, tends to turn green.
• Evenness: roots, lengths and ends can have different levels, and each area shows a different grey.
• Porosity: lightened or treated hair takes the pigment faster than natural hair.

What to expect and how to act

How to achieve the iron grey of the colour chart

1. Assess the base: level and underlying tone, as described above.
2. Lighten to a very light base with a pale yellow undertone, if the hair is darker: a bleaching service in the salon.
3. Remove the residual yellow with an anti-yellow product, for example No Glow Yellow Shampoo and No Glow Yellow Mask, so the grey stays cool and does not turn green.
4. Apply Gems 18 Iron to clean, dry hair, leave on for 15 to 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly.
5. Finish with Stabilizer pH 3.5 as the last step.
6. Revive the reflection when it fades: on washed, towel-dried hair, 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired intensity.

On hair that is already very light or bleached the path starts from step 3; on darker hair the lightening is done in the salon. A test on a hidden strand shows the result on the real base in advance.

How to use Gems 18 Iron

On washed hair

1. Wash the hair and blot the excess water.
2. Apply the colour mask and comb through.
3. Leave on for 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired reflection intensity.
4. At the end of the processing time, rinse thoroughly.

On previously bleached strands

1. Apply the colour mask to clean, dry hair.
2. Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes.

Pre-pigmentation

1. Apply the colour mask to lengths and ends.
2. Comb through.
3. Remove the excess product.
4. Proceed with the colour application, with or without ammonia.

Wear suitable gloves before application.

Mixes with Gems 18 Iron

Gems 18 Iron is used on its own for the full iron grey, or diluted with Gems C Clear: the more Clear in the mix, the lighter and more transparent the grey, always in the same cool direction. A diluted grey asks for an even lighter base.

All 31 official formulas of the collection, with the percentage of each shade, are collected in the Gems Colors Chart.

For professionals

• Service: iron grey toning on lightened hair, a cool reflection between colour services, pre-pigmentation before colour with or without ammonia.
• Processing time: 5-15 minutes on washed, towel-dried hair; 15-20 minutes on bleached strands, applied to dry hair.
• Formats: 200 ml.
• At the station: Gems C Clear to dilute the shade and the Gems Colors Chart to show the client shades and formulas on real hair.
• After the service: Stabilizer pH 3.5, the acidic leave-in spray for the last step.

Gems 18 Iron compared

• vs Gems 11 Pearl Grey: the light, luminous pearl grey of the collection. Gems 18 Iron suits a dark, deep grey; 11 Pearl Grey suits a light grey.
• vs Gems 118 Graphite: the deep graphite, the darkest of the Gems greys. Gems 18 Iron suits an iron grey that lets the metal show; 118 Graphite suits an almost black grey.

FAQ

Does Gems 18 Iron need a developer?

No: it is a ready-to-use colour mask, without ammonia and without developer.

Does it show on brown or dark hair?

As a cool reflection, visible in the light. A visible iron grey needs a lightened base.

Why can the grey turn green?

The blue pigment of the shade adds to the yellow undertone of the hair. Removing the yellow before application keeps the grey cool and clean.

Is it applied to damp or dry hair?

To washed, towel-dried hair for normal use; to clean, dry hair for bleached strands.

How is a lighter grey achieved?

By diluting Gems 18 Iron with Gems C Clear: the more Clear, the lighter and more transparent the grey.

Can it be used before a permanent colour?

Yes, as a pre-pigmentation: apply to lengths and ends, comb through, remove the excess and proceed with the colour, with or without ammonia.