What is Gems 81 Black?

Gems 81 Black is a semi-permanent colour mask by Code Zero, from The Gems Collection, that deposits a deep black. It is ready to use, without ammonia and without developer: apply, leave on for 5 to 15 minutes and rinse.

On light or lightened hair it deposits the full black of the colour chart; on natural hair it deepens the colour towards black and refreshes an existing black. It is used on its own, diluted with Gems C Clear for a softer, more transparent black, or as a pre-pigmentation before colour. It is not part of the official formulas of the Gems Colors Chart.

Specifications

The starting base decides the colour

Gems 81 Black does not lighten: it adds its pigment to the colour it finds on the hair. Unlike the pastel shades of the collection, a deep shade also shows on darker bases, but with a different intensity on each. Assessing level, porosity and evenness before application is the step that decides the final colour.

How to assess the base

• Level: how light the hair is, on a scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). The lighter the base, the more the black shows as a clear change of colour; on brown hair it deepens the colour towards black.
• Underlying tone: a warm, orange or yellow undertone makes the black warmer and browner; a light, cool base gives a cooler black.
• Evenness: roots, lengths and ends can have different levels, and each area shows a different depth of black.
• Porosity: lightened or treated hair takes the pigment faster than natural hair: with a deep shade, porous ends can turn darker than the rest.

What to expect and how to act

How to achieve the black of the colour chart

1. Assess the base: level, porosity and evenness, as described above.
2. No lightening is needed: black deposits on every base; on light or porous hair it deposits faster and more intensely.
3. Apply Gems 81 Black to washed, towel-dried hair for 5 to 15 minutes, or to clean, dry bleached strands for 15 to 20 minutes, and rinse thoroughly.
4. Finish with Stabilizer pH 3.5 as the last step.
5. Revive the black when it fades: on washed, towel-dried hair, 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired intensity.

On light or bleached hair the black deposits quickly: a test on a hidden strand shows the result on the real base in advance and avoids an uneven colour between lengths and ends.

How to use Gems 81 Black

On washed hair

1. Wash the hair and blot the excess water.
2. Apply the colour mask and comb through.
3. Leave on for 5 to 15 minutes according to the desired reflection intensity.
4. At the end of the processing time, rinse thoroughly.

On previously bleached strands

1. Apply the colour mask to clean, dry hair.
2. Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes.

Pre-pigmentation

1. Apply the colour mask to lengths and ends.
2. Comb through.
3. Remove the excess product.
4. Proceed with the colour application, with or without ammonia.

Wear suitable gloves before application.

Mixes with Gems 81 Black

Gems 81 Black is used on its own for the black of the chart, or diluted with Gems C Clear for a softer, more transparent black. It does not appear in the 31 official formulas of the collection, so the chart gives no fixed percentages for mixing it with other Gems shades.

All 31 official formulas of the collection, with the percentage of each shade, are collected in the Gems Colors Chart.

For professionals

• Service: black toning, refreshing a black between colour services, a softer black with Gems C Clear, pre-pigmentation before colour with or without ammonia.
• Processing time: 5-15 minutes on washed, towel-dried hair; 15-20 minutes on bleached strands, applied to dry hair.
• Formats: 200 ml.
• At the station: Gems C Clear to dilute the shade and the Gems Colors Chart to show the client shades and formulas on real hair.
• After the service: Stabilizer pH 3.5, the acidic leave-in spray for the last step.

Gems 81 Black compared

• vs Gems 118 Graphite: the graphite of the collection. Gems 81 Black suits a black; 118 Graphite suits a deep graphite grey.
• vs Gems 75 Cocoa: the deep cocoa brown of the collection. Gems 81 Black suits a black; 75 Cocoa suits a cocoa brown.

FAQ

Does Gems 81 Black need a developer?

No: it is a ready-to-use colour mask, without ammonia and without developer.

Does it show on brown or dark hair?

Yes: on brown hair it deepens the colour towards black; on black hair it refreshes the black.

Why can the ends turn darker than the lengths?

Lightened or porous ends take the pigment faster. Starting from the minimum processing time and applying to the ends last keeps the colour even.

How is a softer black made?

By diluting it with Gems C Clear, which lowers the intensity of the shade.

Is it part of the official formulas?

No: Gems 81 Black does not appear in the 31 official formulas of the Gems Colors Chart. It is used on its own or diluted with Gems C Clear.

Is it applied to damp or dry hair?

To washed, towel-dried hair for normal use; to clean, dry hair for bleached strands.