Gems by Code Zero: how to choose the shade and use the 31 chart formulas

Pastels, coppers, fashion colours, a deeper brown: the Code Zero Gems Collection has 19 colour masks and one pigment-free mask to dilute them, and the Gems Colors Chart adds 31 official formulas. Here is how to use them, step by step.

What Gems are

• Semi-permanent colour masks, ready to use, without ammonia and without developer.
• They deposit colour without lightening: the colour already in the hair stays underneath.
• 19 shades in 200 ml, plus Gems C Clear, the pigment-free mask in 400 ml used to dilute them.
• Processing time on the label: 5 to 15 minutes on washed, towel-dried hair; 15 to 20 minutes on clean, dry bleached strands. They can also be used for pre-pigmentation before colour, with or without ammonia.

Rule one: the base decides the colour

Gems add their pigment to the colour already in the hair. The chart shows every shade on a light base; on a different base the same shade reads differently. Before choosing, assess four things:

• Level: how light the hair is, from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde).
• Underlying pigment: the yellow or orange left by lightening, which blends with the shade.
• Evenness: roots, lengths and ends can have different levels, and each zone takes the colour differently.
• Porosity: lightened or treated hair takes up pigment faster than natural hair.

Most shades need a light or lightened base to read like the chart. The deep shades, Gems 75 Cocoa, Gems 12 Dark Mauve, Gems 118 Graphite, Gems 81 Black, also show on mid bases, where they deepen the colour.

How to read a formula

Each formula gives the percentage of every Gems shade in the mix, and the percentages add up to 100%. Two examples:

• Rose 1: 95% Gems C Clear + 5% Gems 62 Fuchsia
• Copper 4: 80% Gems 44 Intense Copper + 20% Gems 22 Intense Violet

The 31 formulas are grouped in 10 colour families:

All 31 formulas, with the percentage of every shade, are on the Gems Colors Chart page.

Pastels with Gems C Clear

Gems C Clear contains no colorants: it lowers the intensity of the mix. It appears in 9 of the 31 formulas, from 50% to 95%. Red 1, Aqua Marine 1, Blue 1 and Rose 1 to 3 use 80% to 95% C Clear: these are the pastels of the chart.

The more C Clear in the mix, the less pigment it deposits and the more the base shows through. A mix with 90% to 95% C Clear needs a very light, even base without residual warmth: on a yellow base, a pastel rose turns warmer.

Eight shades without a formula

These shades do not appear in the official formulas: Gems 036 Peach, Gems 060 Coral Pink, Gems 81 Black, Gems 118 Graphite, Gems 18 Iron, Gems 12 Dark Mauve, Gems 23 Champagne, Gems 01 Platinum. They are used on their own or diluted with Gems C Clear, and the chart gives no fixed percentages for mixing them with other shades.

Step by step in the salon

1. Choose the shade or the formula on the chart together with the client, in daylight.
2. Assess the base: level, underlying pigment, evenness and porosity.
3. Lighten in the salon if the base is darker than the result needs; the more C Clear in the formula, the lighter the base.
4. Measure the percentages of the formula exactly and mix until even.
5. Apply as on the label: on washed, towel-dried hair for 5 to 15 minutes, or on clean, dry bleached strands for 15 to 20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Wear suitable gloves.
6. Finish with Stabilizer pH 3.5 as the last step.

A test on a hidden strand shows the result on the real base before the full application.

For private clients

Gems are labelled for professional use. If you would like a Gems colour, choose it with your hairdresser: assessing the base and, when needed, lightening it is salon work, and it is what makes the result match the chart.

FAQ

Do Gems lighten the hair? No. They are semi-permanent colour masks that deposit colour without lightening, so the starting base decides how each shade reads.

Do Gems need a developer? No. They are ready-to-use colour masks, without ammonia and without developer.

How do I make a pastel with Gems? Mix a Gems shade with Gems C Clear, following the official formulas: Red 1, Aqua Marine 1, Blue 1 and Rose 1 to 3 use 80% to 95% C Clear. The more C Clear, the lighter and more even the base must be.

Which shades are not in the formulas? Gems 01, 12, 18, 23, 036, 060, 81 and 118. They are used on their own or diluted with Gems C Clear.

How long do Gems stay on? According to the label, 5 to 15 minutes on washed, towel-dried hair and 15 to 20 minutes on clean, dry bleached strands.

Stories from salons

Stories: Nicole and the Colour Between Appointments: a colourist in Zurich adds two Gems services: reviving the reflection between colour appointments and pastels with C Clear.

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